Train Ride to Budapest, Hungary (Budapest, Magyarország)

Sept. 22 , 2025

Adventure. That’s an appropriate word to describe our trip to Budapest from Vienna. Very adventurous, indeed.

I arranged this part of our 40th anniversary trip soon after getting our flights after researching online. I discovering that the Austrian trains system is more modern and reliable than the Hungarian national railway system. So things are set with Austrian ÖBB train.

We arrive with plenty of time at the Hofbahnhauf train station. It’s large station, sparkly, well maintained and relatively new. Yet, our train is delayed by 2 hours. We make friends with a couple from Argentina, Claudio and Mariaopel.

Argentinian travel partners with Luis and I

We wait together for two hours then board the train. I count the 4 stops before Budapest-Keleti. We have the compartment to ourselves. The fabric of the 6 seats in the compartment is clean, utilitarian, dun-color, a bit worn. I had been warned by YouTuber “Man in Seat 64” that the Hungarian national train system hasn’t been uniformly modernized so I’m not surprised. The PA speaker in the compartment doesn’t work. In fact, none of the speakers in the wagon work. I guess that’s a perk if you get a 1st class ticket. But I bought 2nd class seats figuring that regardless of the class, we all arrive at the same time.

A 20-minute stop in the outskirts of Budapest and then we continue…but in the wrong direction. No announcement in English, or German, or Hungarian. Nothing on the app. We are going away from Budapest toward Romania. All of a sudden my motion sickness goes away and I run through 3 wagons, swaying the whole way to find an attendant.

The charming, English-speaking ÖBB attendant, in his crisp white shirt, is no longer with us. There are two MAV attendants from the Hungarian national train company in the hallway of 1st class (where the PA system works) who are super interested in understanding my concern, though they don’t speak a word of English. I can’t even say hello in Hungarian so I throw no stones. We pantomime. A lot. Google translate on “conversation mode” sputters and is barely helpful due to spotty reception. I finally understand: the rail line is closed and we should’ve gotten off at the 20 minute stop. The train has just skipped Budapest-Keleti station. I understand Mr. Pony Tail —he has a small graying ponytail distinguishing him from Mr. Walkie Talkie Ahead— wants to know how many of us need alternate arrangements. I hold up “two” like a peace sign. He cocks his head in confusion. Then his eyes light up and he holds up a thumb and index finger, nods, says something, and nods. He indicates for me to show them where my Number Two is and we all run back through the wagons toward Luis who is waiting with our luggage. Mr. Pony Tail and Mr. Walkie Talkie help us get our luggage out into the hallway, to the wagon door and off the train. They also help two Taiwanese ladies. I didn’t know I was advocating for the group. We are motioned to go over to the other lines, and get on the next train arriving in 4 minutes going the direction we just came from.

We get off in the tiny town of Mosglov. We all run through the tunnel but can’t find the other set of tracks. The station is closed. There is nobody around except us four. I approach workmen in a pickup. Maybe they work for the train system. Maybe not. We don’t speak each other’s languages but they understand “Budapest.” One of the guys takes us back through the tunnel and shows us to wait here for the next train.